1870s Men's Clothing Guide

The 1870s began the Gilded Age, a period of American industrial and economic growth surpassing Britain's. The completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869 enabled people and goods to cross the country in 6 days rather than 6 months. The telephone, phonograph and incandescent light bulb were patented, and the rise of new industries changed the face of the country, as well as the fashion worn by men and women.

Wide availability of the sewing machine, American made fabric, improvements in transportation, and standardized sizing allowed garment patterns and ready-to-wear garments to be available to almost anyone anywhere via mail order catalogs, and a man's complete wardrobe could be bought readymade, in good quality, without the need for a tailor.

The primary change in attire was a narrowing of the silhouette. Gone were the days of the large ties and colorful vests of the 1860s. Instead the decade was characterized by a blend of elegance, sobriety, and practicality. A tailoring trade journal noted in 1871, that men dressed "as quietly as it is possible to do," avoiding extremes in dress.

Complete Mens 1870s Outfits

At Historical Emporium, we offer a full line of men's period clothing which are suitable for movie and TV production, theatrical, living history and performing arts requirements, and are also perfect for vintage weddings!

All of the products we sell are sold individually, but we have put together a selection of full outfits to showcase the elements of 1870s mens style for your consideration and inspiration.

Frock Coats

The frock coat remained a staple of formal daywear, evolving to a slimmer fit with narrower sleeves and lapels, reflecting the period's trend towards more understated elegance.

There was a brief trend for very short frock coats, with hemlines ending well above the knee, but the longer frock coat quickly regained supremacy. Both single and double breasted frock coats were seen throughout the decade. When wearing single breasted coats, some gentlemen would fasten only the top button of their coat to allow their vest and pocket watch chain to be on full display.

Cutaway Coats

Cutaways (or "morning coats") first appeared in the 1850s and had evolved from the "Newmarket" english riding coat. The cutaway style gained popularity in this decade by offering a stylish yet less formal alternative for daywear. With its distinctive cutaway opening and waist seam, its gave freedom of movement and a sleeker silhouette.

Like the Frock Coat, the Cutaway could be single or double breasted and was made of dark wools with silk braid for formal wear. For more casual daywear and sporting events tweeds and linens were the fabric of choice.

Also like the Frock Coat, the Cutaway could be single or double breasted and was made of dark wools with silk braid for formal wear. For more casual daywear and sporting events tweeds and linens were the fabric of choice.

Sack Coats

The shorter, less structured, Sack Coat continued to be popular for informal occasions, and was often worn with just the top button closed to reveal the gentleman's vest and watch chain. The coat was most easily distinguished by its lack of a waist seam and shorter length. It often formed part of a coordinated suit that foreshadowed the modern three-piece suit.

Though black reigned supreme, sack coats were often available in a variety of fabrics and colors, including plaids, checks and tweed.

Overcoats and Cloaks

Overcoats (or "top frocks") worn in this decade included the Chesterfield, the Inverness, and the Ulster, the latter two often featuring capes (as sported by Sherlock Holmes in illustrations.)

These coats were often knee length throughout the decade, and primarily made in wool.

Smoking Jackets and Robes

The smoking jacket was a popular casual jacket for wearing at home. Also called a "breakfast jacket," it could be luxurious in velvet or quilted silk with contrasting lining, or made more simply from contrasting colors of flannel.

Often designed with braid trim and frog closures, a tailoring journal referred to the smoking jacket as being "among the minor comforts of a gentleman."

Trousers

Men's trousers in the 1870s were typically made from wool or linen and featured a high waist with a straight and somewhat narrow leg, compared to the baggy trousers popular in the late 1850s and early 1860s. Trousers were held up by suspenders, as belt loops were not yet common. Striped or checked patterns were popular for casual wear, while more sober solids or barely-there stripes were reserved for more formal contexts.

Of note, in 1873 Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis introduced the original copper riveted denim jean to meet the demand for durable workwear. The unique copper riveting system was patented and became an iconic piece of fashion history.

Vests

Commonly called waistcoats, the vest remained a staple of the male wardrobe for all classes - shirts were essentially considered undergarments and a gentleman dared not be seen in "bare shirtsleeves" by anyone other than his wife or close family.

As the neckline of men's coats rose higher through the decade, it became more common for vests to match the dark color of the coat, although men of affluence and bon vivants would often still don colorful silk, brocade and embroidered vests.

Despite the focus on somber tones, vests were seen in single and double breasted cuts with a wide variety of lapel, button and collar styles. Collars included notch and shawl collars, as well as the increasingly popular collarless style.

Shirts

Shirts reflect the same trend as coats and vests, becoming plainer throughout the decade, although stripes and plaids of blue, red or gray on white are still seen.

Unlike modern shirts, the 1870s gentleman had shirts made without collars or cuffs. Collars and cuffs could be washed and starched separately from the shirt, reducing laundry requirements while still maintaining a crisp, clean look. According to clothing guides of the time, a gentleman would have 6 or so sets of each.

While high stand and wingtip collars maintained their popularity for day and evening wear, fold down collars continued to make headway in daywear.

Neckties

Neckwear of all kinds could be seen throughout the decade.

Small, soft bow ties were a common sight, as well as cravats.

As the decade progressed, the "four-in-hand" and ascot both gained popularity. The four-in hand featured very large knots, and was seen in solid colors as well as stripes and polka dots.

Hats

Tall black top hats continue to be required for formal daywear and evening occasions, worn with frock coats, fancier morning coats and evening tailcoats, but were seen less often for daywear than in previous decades.

In place of the top hat, the derby/bowler hat became the fashionable and more youthful choice for pairing with a cutaway or sack suit in the 1870s. Derbies were available in various heights and colors, as were a variety of other styles for work and play.

Wide brimmed hats with lower crowns were also available in a variety of colors and styles, of made of felt or straw.

Hairstyles and Accessories

The 1870s saw shorter hair for most men. It was often side parted and slicked down, a considerable change from the longer curled sides and top of the previous decade. Facial hair took center stage and men embraced a variety of styles including full mutton-chop whiskers, handlebar mustaches, full beards and goatees.

The pocket watch and its visible chain continued to be a common accessory for men of every station.

Evening Wear

Black tailcoats remained the standard for formal and evening wear. Most often worn with a matching waistcoat, white shirt with a pleated or frilled chest inset, and dark silk bow tie. Matching trousers, often with braid on side seams was also quite common. A silk top hat, especially the Gibus collapsible opera top hat was a popular choice for evening events.

Work Wear, Frontier & Cowboy Clothing

As is ever the case, fashion trends are for the wealthy, and men in the working and lower classes got by with the clothing they had for as long as possible. In fact, most clothing was reused for other purposes when it wore out. A dress could be cut down to create shirts for the children, or a worn-out coat could be recut for another family member.

As photographic technologies progress throughout the 1800s, our understanding of styles worn by the average citizen becomes clearer. In occupational photos from the 1870s as well as group photos, we see how styles were blended.

A butcher wearing a casual thermal top and apron with a very tall, shiny top hat, or a group of painters wearing vests with lapels, no lapels, ties, no ties, stripe shirts, plain shirts and hats or caps.

Candid photos and occupational portraits are a great resource, and show how men mixed styles for their personal needs.

Location, occupation and personal taste resulted in outdated, anachronistic clothing combinations not seen in fashion plates or tailor's journals.

Q&A About 1870s Men's Clothing Guide

Men in the 1870s wore a narrower silhouette compared to previous decades, with clothing characterized by elegance, sobriety, and practicality. Their standard attire included slimmer frock coats, cutaway coats, or sack coats paired with high-waisted trousers, waistcoats (vests), white shirts with separate collars and cuffs, neckwear such as bow ties or four-in-hand ties, and headwear like top hats or derby/bowler hats.

The 1870s fashion trends were marked by a narrowing silhouette and more understated elegance compared to the 1860s. Key trends included slim-fitting frock coats with narrow sleeves and lapels, the rise of the cutaway coat for business attire, the popularity of matching three-piece sack suits, higher necklines on coats, and the shift toward quieter, more somber colors and patterns, especially for formal occasions.

Upper class men in the 1870s wore high-quality, perfectly tailored garments made from premium fabrics. For formal daywear, they favored frock coats or morning coats in fine wool with silk facings, paired with matching or contrasting waistcoats sometimes in luxurious silks or brocades. Their evening wear consisted of impeccable black tailcoats with matching trousers featuring silk braiding. Upper class gentlemen accessorized with gold pocket watches, fine silk top hats, and could afford multiple outfits for different occasions, all adhering to the strict social dress codes of the Gilded Age.

Lower class men in the 1870s typically wore practical, durable clothing that prioritized function over fashion. Working-class men often had one basic outfit for everyday wear, consisting of sturdy trousers, simple shirts without attached collars, basic vests, and sack coats or older-style jackets that might be somewhat outdated. Their clothes were frequently patched and repaired, and the introduction of Levi's riveted denim work pants in 1873 provided a durable option for laborers. Caps or wide-brimmed felt hats were more common than the bowler or top hats worn by the middle and upper classes.

Historical Emporium offers well-crafted reproductions of 1870s men's clothing that balance historical accuracy with modern wearability. Their garments feature period-appropriate styles, cuts, and details while incorporating contemporary construction techniques for comfort and durability. The company provides a full line of men's period clothing suitable for movie and TV production, theatrical performances, living history events, and vintage-themed weddings, with individual pieces available to create authentic 1870s ensembles.

In the 1870s, men's fashion favored more somber, understated colors, with black reigning supreme for formal attire. Dark colors dominated coats and trousers, while vests occasionally featured more colorful silks and brocades for affluent men. For casual and country wear, tweeds in various earth tones, checks, and plaids were popular, and work clothes often came in practical darker colors that wouldn't show dirt easily.

Men in the 1870s wore several types of coats: slim-fittingfrock coatsfor formal daywear; cutaway (morning) coats offering a stylish yet less formal alternative; shorter, less structured sack coats for informal occasions that often formed part of matching three-piece suits; and overcoats such as the Chesterfield, Inverness, and Ulster (often featuring capes) for outerwear. For at-home wear, smoking jackets were popular casual options.

Men's trousers in the 1870s featured a high waist with a straight, somewhat narrow leg compared to the baggier styles of the early 1860s. They were typically made from wool or linen and held up by suspenders as belt loops weren't yet common. Striped or checked patterns were popular for casual wear, while solid colors or subtle stripes were preferred for formal occasions. Notably, 1873 saw Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis introduce the original copper-riveted denim jean for durable workwear.

Men's shirts in the 1870s became increasingly plain, though stripes and plaids in blue, red, or gray on white were still seen. Shirts were made without attached collars or cuffs, which could be washed and starched separately. For neckwear, small soft bow ties were common, along with cravats, while the "four-in-hand" tie with its large knot and the ascot gained popularity as the decade progressed, available in solid colors, stripes, and polka dots.

While tall black top hats remained essential for formal daywear and evening occasions, they became less common for everyday wear in the 1870s. The derby/bowler hat became the fashionable choice for wearing with cutaway or sack suits, available in various heights and colors. Wide-brimmed hats with lower crowns in felt or straw were also popular options for casual and work wear.

Men's hairstyles in the 1870s became notably shorter compared to previous decades, often side-parted and slicked down rather than the longer curled sides and top of earlier years. Facial hair took center stage with a variety of popular styles including full mutton-chop whiskers, handlebar mustaches, full beards, and goatees, allowing men to express personal style while conforming to the groomed appearance expected of gentlemen.

For formal evening occasions in the 1870s, men wore black tailcoats, most often with matching waistcoats, white shirts featuring pleated or frilled chest insets, and dark silk bow ties. Matching trousers, frequently with braid on the side seams, completed the ensemble. A silk top hat, especially the Gibus collapsible opera top hat, was the standard headwear for evening events.

Cowboys and frontier men in the 1870s wore practical, durable clothing that often mixed various styles based on personal needs, availability, and function rather than following strict fashion trends. Their attire typically included sturdy work shirts, vests, durable trousers (including the newly introduced Levi's riveted denim jeans), wide-brimmed hats for sun protection, and hardy boots. While these men were aware of fashion trends, their clothing choices prioritized functionality for their demanding lifestyles.

The Gilded Age influenced men's fashion in the 1870s by bringing greater industrial production and economic growth that made quality clothing more accessible. With the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869, advancements in manufacturing, and standardized sizing, ready-to-wear garments became widely available through mail-order catalogs. This democratization of fashion allowed more men to afford complete wardrobes without requiring a tailor, while the era's focus on business success encouraged a more somber, professional appearance.

The pocket watch remained the essential accessory for men of all social classes in the 1870s, with its chain prominently displayed across the vest. When wearing single-breasted coats, many gentlemen would fasten only the top button to ensure their vest and watch chain remained visible. Walking sticks, gloves, and for those who could afford them, fine leather boots with spats were also popular accessories that completed a gentleman's ensemble.

The main difference between 1860s and 1870s men's fashion was the significant narrowing of the silhouette. The 1860s featured a boxy, oversized look with wide lapels, puffed sleeves, and wide-legged trousers, while 1870s fashion shifted to slim-fitting coats with narrow sleeves and lapels, higher necklines, and straighter, narrower trousers. Additionally, 1870s fashion was more subdued and practical, moving away from the colorful vests and large ties of the 1860s toward a more understated elegance.

Complete Regency Outfits

We offer a full line of men's period clothing which are suitable for movie and TV production, theatrical, living history and performing arts requirements, and are also perfect for vintage weddings!

All of the products we sell are sold individually, but we have put together these full outfits to showcase the elements of Regency style for your consideration and inspiration.

Click any image for a close-up and a list of the products shown.

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